I love it.
Sure, it's not really my style anymore, and of course, my punk anarchy days are over (not that they really began...)- but I think it's cool. Denim and leather will always have a special place in my heart.
It does however, make me crave the 1990's infamous 'Heroin Chic' imagery. And although, yes, it might not be completely ethical (anti-drugs groups would second, third and fourth this), it provokes a certain nostalgia in me for the good old grunge days. The days where you wore your Silverchair hoodie, your Bolt jeans, your 'I-hate-my-mum' studded belt, no make-up, hair limp, bags under your eyes from staying up late to listen to the radio 1 late night metal show on a school night- all with pride because it was the 90's, and we'd developed a new, tamer form of progressive punk. Drug imagery was all around us, in magazines, on the television, in our peers- the whole era was saturated with dirty drug-induced imagery.
In fashion, it all started with Davide Sorrenti who shot the infamous 1993 Calvin Klein campaign, featuring Kate Moss:
The look: Heroin Addict.
I'll give you a brief bit of background information as to why 'Heroin Chic' became popular as image inspiration...
Back in the 90's, the opinion and stigma surrounding the use of heroin as a drug changed. It had previously been seen as a poor person's drug choice- that of a desperate addict- the method of 'shooting up', injecting oneself, was viewed as both disgusting and an inconvenience, and its value decreased dramatically. It became both cheaper and purer for not being in popular demand. But as it became more popular to inhale the substance, it all began to change. Drug-taking also developed as more of a focus in popular culture- film, for instance, began showing addiction in a way it hadn't before- Trainspotting and Pulp Fiction soon developed a cult following; and because heroin was a purer, less expensive alternative to the ever increasingly popular cocaine (which at the time was on the decline in the purity stakes), heroin soon became the preferred alternative for the middle-class, wealthier population- and especially, amongst celebrities.
The heroin-user look then became coveted by the fashion industry, cheifed by Davide Sorrenti, a heroin user himself, who was obsessed with fellow user and model Jaime King. His photography was iconic in the 90's before he himself, died of an overdose. Here's some of his work with Jaime King:
Coming back to the present now, it would apparently be swings and roundabouts with this whole drug-using thing- as heroin is no longer regarded as either glamorous or cool. Thanks to models such as Gisele, who was regarded as the first 'healthy' (i.e. not a smack-head) looking model back in 1999, we have seemingly dispelled the 'Heroin Chic' look for good.
Now, although I personally do not condone any substance abuse, or use at all for that matter (disclaimer), I would like to see some more 'Heroin Chic' inspired imagery coming back. I don't think it's neccessary for models to participate in any amount of drug taking for these 90's grunge images to be re-created, so let's just do it!! I was really hoping to see some in the SS12 campaigns, after hearing that it was set to be a trend for 2012, and have been more than a little disappointed. Especially since we now have models such as Karlie Kloss (call me a sheep for her being my favourite model as the moment- I don't care!), who would fit the bill perfectly:
See?
I for one think it's time us 90's kids were allowed to relive our youth. Or maybe I should just grow up? Don't answer that...
L.
